Day 57: May 18, 2007
Langtry, Texas to Sanderson, Texas
Distance 62.7 miles in 3h 40m
Total Distance: 2,147 miles

Langtry is known as the town of Judge Roy Bean. He was the "Law West of the Pecos" during the late 1800s and was quite a colorful character. He was actually a saloon keeper who somehow got himself appointed as the sole law enforcement official in this vast, wild, and lawless part of Texas. He was known for his harsh sense of justice as well as his hilarious courtroom antics. Even today, Judge Bean, the mementos of his life, and his saloon - where he dispensed justice - are still major tourist attractions.

For reasons unknown, Judge Bean became obsessed with an English actress names Lillie Langtry. He even called his saloon the Lillie Langtry Opera House, and wrote to her repeatedly, requesting that she visit his town, which he named Langtry in her honor. She politely declined, and instead offered to pay for a fountain in the town square. Judge Bean responded that a fountain would be worthless because "about the only thing people don't drink around here is water." Lillie finally visited the town named after her, but sadly she didn't arrive until eight months after the judge's death.

After learning about the Judge Roy Bean legend, I pedaled my way to Sanderson - The Cactus Capital of Texas!! Somebody in Del Rio described Sanderson as "a ghost town with people." Another person guessed that most of the residents in Sanderson were in the Witness Protection Program, because she couldn't imagine what people were doing there. I actually enjoyed its remote setting and compact size. I wasn't expecting to wear my wool, long-sleeved sweater in western Texas this time of year, but the weather was cool enough for me to drag the sweater out of the bottom of my bag. Just glad I hadn't sent it home yet.

The Langtry-Sanderson stretch of the trip was great for cycling, and the miles whizzed by even though the altitude rose by more than 1500 feet. In a way that is hard to describe, I felt sorry for anybody who has never cycled this road before. There are no services for 60 miles in either direction of Sanderson, so if you're a cyclist - or if you're driving a car on Highway 90 - you will almost certainly be spending some time here.

Day 58: May 19, 2007 
Sanderson, Texas to Alpine, Texas
Distance 87.2 miles in 5h 05m
Total Distance: 2,234 miles

Joe Hyde, the Air Force veteran and Aggie who had interviewed me in Del Rio, suggested that I call Judge Leo Smith, who is the Terrell County Judge. Since Terrell County only has two towns, Sanderson and Dryden, both unincorporated, Leo is also the equivalent of the mayor, city planner, law enforcement officer, and economic development coordinator. He is a busy man to say the least.

My father and I met Leo for breakfast at the "No Name Cafe" in Sanderson. He was meeting with his economic advisory committee and they were discussing ways to stimulate the local economy and how to make Sanderson more attractive to investors. I suggested that maybe  they should open a water and wave park, like the hugely popular Schlitterbahn in New Braunfels. He laughed and said they can barely afford the water!

Leo also talked about threat of terrorists coming across the border into Texas. Law enforcement is spread extremely thin for such a huge border. With only 1100 citizens, Terrell County is the size of Rhode Island and is the 10th largest of Texas' 254 counties. Illegal immigration had been a problem in previous decades, but the more serious challenge now is stopping terrorists who want to cross into the country. Hopefully, this is a problem that will be seriously addressed before it's too late, although Leo admits that there may not be a lot that can be done.

Leo bought us breakfast and it was a pleasure to meet him, and to hear him talk about his town and his plans for its future. He is another big-hearted Texan, who I'll fondly remember as I continue the journey.

More rain was forecast for today, and I needed my sweater again. Definitely a crazy spring here in Texas. I cycled past a small cluster of businesses at One Cactus Plaza on my way out of Sanderson, towards the town of Marathon. I had heard that the Gage Hotel - a Marathon landmark since 1927 - served a legendary chicken fried steak, and this kept me going for the few hours it took to reach the town.

Marathon was even smaller than Sanderson! Moreover, the restaurant with the much-anticipated chicken fried steak would not be open for business until the evening. So, while the weather was still decent, I decided to forget about food for once in my life and push on to Alpine.

There were some really scenic mountains in every direction, and I felt like I had arrived in the part of the country where every landscape looks like a postcard. Another 1500 feet of climbing brought us to an elevation of 4500 feet. I got caught pedaling in a thunderstorm for the last five miles on the way into Alpine, but I didn't care. I kind of hoped I would get hit by lightning so I would have an excuse to stop.

Day 59: May 20, 2007

Visiting the sights around Alpine, historic Fort Davis, and the McDonald Observatory...

Day 60: May 21, 2007 
Alpine, Texas to Van Horn, Texas
Distance 102 miles in 6h 29m
Total Distance: 2,336 miles

I decided to take Judge Leo Smith's last bit of advice he had given me in Sanderson a few days earlier, and continue cycling on Highway 90 instead of on the extremely hilly and twisting road through Fort Davis recommended by my cycling maps. This turned out to be my first 100-mile day of the trip. I'm not sure how much this has to do with performance. When you see miles and miles of nothing, as is frequently the case in Texas, you won't be spending a lot of time stopping to smell the flowers along the way.

Luckily, the weather was ideal and the terrain was either level or downhill for most of the day. The picturesque town of Marfa was one of the highlights today, and definitely rates as a place where I wish I could spend more time. The main street leading up to the town square was well-preserved, and many of the storefronts retained their 1940s-era facades. 

On the outskirts of Marfa, I passed a sign blandly announcing "No services for the next 74 miles." When you see a sign like this, you think about all the things you wish you had ate and drank earlier in the day.  On this lonely highway, there were a few tiny settlements that  looked abandoned. I thought about all the families that had once travelled Highway 90 back in the pre-interstate days, on their way to or from an exciting vacation in California. After the interstate was built, these towns along Highway 90 must have died a painful death.

I made it to Van Horn with plenty of light left and the weather still perfect. More significantly, I finally reached the absolute, undisputed end of Highway 90! I thought there would be a big "End 90" sign, or a parade, or a free margarita...or something to mark the end of this road which started in Jacksonville Beach, Florida. Nothing. I would have to savor my small victory over the US Highway system the only way I knew how: with four Dr. Peppers, mashed potatoes, and a 12-ounce sirloin steak.

Day 61: May 22, 2007 
Van Horn, Texas to Fabens, Texas
Distance 92 miles in 6h 54m
Total Distance: 2,428 miles

Another long day in the saddle...plus the added excitement of crossing into the Mountain Time Zone!

Day 62: May 23, 2007 
Fabens, Texas to El Paso, Texas 
Distance 23 miles in 1h 42m
Total Distance: 2,451 miles

Finally reached El Paso! Looks like the rain is gone for good. Now comes the real heat...

Day 63:  May 24, 2007
Bicycle tour of El Paso
31 miles pedaling around town

A few news interviews, a stop at the Crazy Cat Bike Shop, and a visit with El Paso City Councilman Mr. Beto O'Rourke.